The brand Untes Nude is one of the highlights of Milan Design Week. The footwear brand founde by Rem D Koolhaas enites fives illustrious architects and designers to create pairs of sculptural shoes made entirely on a 3D printer
Zaha Hadid, Ben van Berkel and Fernando Romero, and designers Ross Lovegrove andMichael Young, were the artists chosen to create sculpturapairs of women’s shoes using 3D printing.
“We want to push the technology but I also wanted to push the silhouettes,” Koolhaas “I also wanted to create conversational pieces and shoes that are not necessarily for everyday wearing but really are beautiful pieces and conversational pieces, almost like art.”
Each pair was created using two different materials: the soles were printed in hard nylon, while the uppers were formed from thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), which is softer and more flexible.
This is the second time that architect Zaha Hadid collaborated with United Nud. The first time she designed a pair of striated shoes with cantilevered heels launched in 2013.
Her new Flames shoes were designed at the same time as a concept, but were resurrected to fit in with this project.The black designs feature thorn-like spikes that surround the feet.
Ben van Berkel
UNStudio founder Ben van Berkel designed his grey footwear to a “hoof” due to the shape of the curvaceous shell. “We started off by thinking about how we could work with the idea of verticality and how you can extend the length, especially if you see it from the back,” Van Berkel .
“They are very easy to walk in,” said Van Berkel. “We made a strong construction inside the shoe so that whenever you walk on it you feel stable.”
Fernando Romero, Mexican architect created a red Ammonite shoes, based on the spiral shells of fossilised sea creatures. The shoes are on display inside an entirely black room with no daylight at the Teatro Arsenale in Milan until 19 April.
British designer Ross Lovegrove worked with Grasshopper software expert Arturo Tedeschi to create her pair of shoes. “I’ve gone for extreme verticality,” said Lovegrove, who designed the upright elements of his green Ilabo designs to be as thin as the machine could manage.
Hong Kong-based Michael Young designed the black young shoe . “It’s actually comfortable to wear although it doesn’t look like it,” Young told Dezeen. “I just wanted to take a completely different approach to the way we normally work and just embrace that sculptural aspect.”
Each pair of shoes is contained in a glass case on top of a podium, all raised up on a platform and illuminated with ceiling-mounted spotlights.
“I really wanted to create something with a heavy impact and something that you remember,” added Koolhaas.